Kanakaris 10³ Malagousia 2023

Aigialeia, in the northwestern Peloponnese, is among Greece’s most distinctive wine-growing regions. Set against the rugged terrain of the Panachaiko mountains, the area’s high elevations, northern exposure, steep, sloping vineyards and proximity to the Corinthian Gulf help moderate high temperatures, creating a growing environment unlike anything else in the Peloponnese. It is here that Michalis Kanakaris founded his eponymous winery in 1979, focusing on indigenous varieties Roditis, Sideritis and Mavro Kalavrytino grown on Aigialeia’s sandy, red/white clay soils. Today, Kanakaris is run by the third generation of Michalis’ family, with brothers Stefanos and Michalis taking over the reins in 2009.

Capturing a sense of place is at the core of Kanakaris’ winemaking ethos. Stefanos and Michalis work closely with like-minded growers, farming 55 hectares of vines planted between 450 and 1150 metres above sea level. These vineyards, dotted with olive groves and citrus trees, are situated on either side of the valleys and gorges of the five rivers of the Peloponnese, which flow down from the mountains to the Corinthian Gulf. While maintaining their grandfather's original focus on Roditis, Sideritis and Mavro Kalavrytino, the brothers have also added Malagousia , Moschofilero and Agiorgitiko to their remit, alongside the international varieties Merlot and Syrah. All Kanakaris’ fruit is hand-harvested and vinified in their recently renovated modern winery, equipped with a range of stainless-steel tanks to capture the aromatics of Greece’s indigenous varieties and Aigialeia’s vineyards.

Their Malagousia and Agiorgitiko are Kanakaris’ exploration of Aigialeia’s highest vineyards, many planted over 1,000 metres above sea level. The Malagousia is made from a clone local to the slopes of Aigialeia, which gives a palate of tropical fruits, herbs and citrus. It presents a distinct point of difference from the clones of northern and southern Greece, producing distinctive, botanical aromatics. Conversely, the Agiorgitiko hails from carefully selected Nemea vineyards in the foothills of Mount Koutsi. Here, the soil is comprised of calcareous clay and sand, lending itself to deeply flavoured fruit. This is one of the few Kanakaris wines aged in oak, with third or second-fill barrels used to help soften Agiorgitiko’s natural tannins over six months, before bottling.